An Autumn Day on the Steppe

Last Friday morning dawned into a beautiful bright autumn day, a little breezy, but dry with no rain forecast. Perhaps a perfect day to venture up onto the high steppe region that lies around 90 minutes drive west of Valencia. So, together with Maria Jose and Itziar of Magic&Nature, that´s exactly what I did. Following the lockdown in the Spring and then the scorching summer heat up there, this was the first time in months that I´d visited this area and it certainly felt good to be back. Firstly, we called into my favourite bar to say hi to the owner and to grab a quick coffee before we headed out onto the fields.

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Almost as soon as we stopped at the first viewpoint, we saw a Red Kite and a Buzzard. Crested Larks were calling from the scrub close to us and large flocks of Linnets were flitting around. Onwards we pressed, to check out some old farm buildings that usually hold Rock Sparrow. We were in luck and enjoyed great views of these pretty yet tough little birds. It was time to scan the fields with the scope, and our efforts were rewarded with beautiful views of a group of 23 Great Bustards, both on the ground and later in flight. Such a classic “Spanish steppe” sight!

Heading off-road, windows down to listen to what was around, we enjoyed good views of first Crested Larks and a little later Maria Jose found a pair of Thekla Larks, the shorter, stubby bill of the latter sufficiently evident. A Hoopoe was feeding on the ground next to the car, and off in the distance, a Marsh Harrier skimmed low over the reeds bordering a lagoon. A pair of Stonechats gave good views too.

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Great Bustards

Our first stop by one of the area´s lagoons was very productive with Dunlin, Ruff, Redshank, Snipe and Black Winged Stilt all feeding in the shallows. Further out on the water were huge numbers of Red Crested Pochard, Shoveler, Common Coot and Greater Flamingo. Still focussing on lagoons, we visited another which usually throws up a surprise or two. Apart from the White Headed Ducks, Black Necked Grebe, Gadwall and a Chiffchaff calling from the bushes, Itzy spotted a Red Knobbed Coot, an excellent bird to see up here and well spotted amongst the huge flock of Common Coot.

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Red Knobbed Coot

The wind was blowing quite hard by now so we decided to pack up and return to the car. On the way to the higher steppe we stopped briefly at our final lagoon of the day and had great views of a couple of very young Greater Flamingo and a Green Sandpiper. Shortly after, a large raptor suddenly caught our attention – we jumped out of the car to get a better look and found it to be a Golden Eagle! I initially wondered whether it was going to be one of the Spanish Imperial Eagles that are seen in this area, but as soon as I had it in the binoculars, it was clear it was a Golden….such a stunning creature and what a privilege to see it so well.

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Autumn steppe scenery

It was soon time to begin our return journey and head for home, but we brought the day to a close with a Little Owl, an Iberian Grey Shrike and spectacular views of the huge skies and rolling plains that dominate this landscape. It had been a pleasure to spend the day back in this special place, and to enjoy it among good company. We´ll be back soon I´m sure.

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A “habitat shot” of Iberian Grey Shrike by Itziar Colodro Sainz

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Written by Dave Warrington.

Valencia Birding

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